Saturday, 31 July 2010
Main Menu
Product Menu

Edinburgh Beauty Shop

Welcome To Edinburgh Beauty Shop

Welcome Edinburgh Beauty Shop

 Here at the Edinburgh Beauty Shop we offer the Full range of beauty products available in Edinburgh.

 Below you will fin details and information on all kinds of beauty products such as nail polish, foundation, lipstick and much more, to the left you will see the produc menu which conatins the full beauty range available from the Edinburgh Beauty Shop.


Nail Polish
History

Nail polish seems to have been originated by the Chinese around 3000 B.C. The Japanese and Italians are thought to have been the first ones to actually use nail polish. The Chinese used a colored lacquer, made from a combination of Arabic gum, egg whites, gelatin and beeswax. They also used a mixture consisting of mashed rose, orchid and impatiens petals combined with alum.[citation needed] This mixture, when applied to nails for a few hours or overnight, leaves a color ranging from pink to red. The Egyptians used reddish-brown stains derived from henna to color their nails as well as the tips of their fingers. Today, some people still use henna dyes to draw intricate, temporary designs on their hands in a practice known as Mehndi. Chou Dynasty of 600 B.C., Chinese royalty often chose gold and silver to enhance their nails. A fifteenth-century Ming manuscript cites red and black as the colors chosen by royalty for centuries previous.[citation needed] The Egyptians also used nail color to signify social order, with shades of red at the top. Queen Nefertiti,the wife of the king Akhenaton, colored her finger and toe nails ruby red; Cleopatra favored a deep rust red.[citation needed] Women of lower rank who colored their nails were permitted only pale hues. Incas were known for decorating their fingernails with pictures of eagles.[citation needed] It is unclear how the practice of coloring nails progressed following these ancient beginnings. Portraits from the 17th and 18th centuries include shiny nails.[1]. By the turn of the 19th century, nails were tinted with scented red oils and polished or buffed with a chamois cloth, rather than simply painted.[2] In addition, English and US 19th century cookbooks contained directions for making nail paints. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, women still pursued a polished, rather than painted, look by massaging tinted powders and creams into their nails, then buffing them shiny.[2] One such polishing product sold around this time was Graf’s Hyglo nail polish paste.[2] Some women during this period painted their nails using a clear, glossy varnish applied with camel-hair brushes.[2] When automobile paint was created around 1920, it inspired the introduction of colored nail enamels.[2] Nail polish contains nitrocellulose which is available in many different grades and is measured by viscosity. Nail grade nitrocellulose should be used for nail polish, as opposed to industrial grade which is available for use in furniture finishes, auto-paints and other various non-cosmetic lacquer finishes. Nail polish manufacturers are known to use industrial grade nitrocellulose covertly to save money, as it is half the price of the nail grade nitro. Cosmetic companies should be aware of this practice when they are choosing a pan manufacturer.


Pink nail polish.

Most nail polishes are made of nitrocellulose dissolved in a solvent (e.g. butyl acetate or ethyl acetate) and either left clear or colored with various pigments. Basic components included are: film forming agents, resins and plasticizers, solvents, and coloring agents. Adhesive polymers (e.g. tosylamide-formaldehyde resin) ensure the nitrocellulose adheres to the nail's surface. Plasticizers (e.g. camphor) are chemicals that link between polymer chains, spacing them to make the film sufficiently flexible after drying. Pigments and sparkling particles (e.g. mica) add desired color and reflecting characteristics. Thickening agents (e.g. stearalkonium hectorite) are added to maintain the sparkling particles in suspension while in the bottle. Ultraviolet stabilizers (e.g. benozophenone-1) resist color changes when the dry film is exposed to direct sunlight.

Nail polish makers have been under pressure to reduce or eliminate potentially toxic ingredients, including phthalates, toluene, and formaldehyde, from their nail polish.[3][4] In September 2006, several makers agreed to phase out dibutyl phthalate, which has been linked to testicular problems in lab animals and humans, in updated formulations.[4] Though some makers recently agreed to eliminate formaldehyde from their products, others still use the chemical.[3]


A recent development is water-based nail polish, which is based on an acrylic polymer emulsion (e.g. styrene-acrylate copolymer), and pigments similar to those used in watercolor paints.[citation needed] This is marketed as a more environmentally-conscious product, since nail polish is considered a hazardous waste by some regulatory bodies (e.g. Los Angeles Department of Public Works)[5] In this application, the solvent (water) does not completely evaporate as in the case of the traditional nail polish; part of the water is absorbed through the fingernail.

Nail polish in fashion

Nail polish is traditionally worn by women, but it is gaining popularity with men as well, who may apply it to their fingernails, toenails, or both. Steven Tyler, singer for Aerosmith, has regularly painted his nails black for many years.

Traditional colors for nail polish are red, pink and brown, although it can now be found in nearly every color and shade desired. French manicures traditionally mimic the color of natural nails, with a clear polish on most of the nail and a white finish at the tips. Black and other dark nail polish shades have been popular with goths and punks of both genders since the 1970s, however it has now gained popularity in the mainstream fashion world. Nail polish may also be used to complete an outfit. In this case, women, and occasionally men, match the color of the nail polish to the colors of the clothing.

Some men also wear nail polish (typically fingernail polish). Musicians, particularly of the rock & metal genres including Trent Reznor, Richard Kruspe, Dave Navarro, Marilyn Manson, Jared Leto, Steven Tyler, Kirk Hammett, Brian Molko, Lou Reed, Freddie Mercury, Martin Gore, Davey Havok, Gerard Way, Pete Wentz, Bill Kaulitz, Lauri Ylönen, Jonne Aaron, Ville Valo, Tuomas Holopainen, Alexi Laiho and Shavo Odadjian have been known to wear nail polish, most notably black. Some sportsmen also wear nail polish, most notably professional wrestler Jeff Hardy. In 1997, the cosmetic company Hard Candy released Candy Man, a brand of dark nail polishes aimed specifically at men.[6]


Some types of polish are advertised to cause nail growth, make nails stronger, prevent nails from breaking, cracking and splitting and stop nail biting. Nail polish may be applied as one of several components in a manicure. However, some kinds of nail treatments contain ingredients such as ammonium hexafluorophosphate.

Nail polish remover

Nail polish is easily removed with nail polish remover, which is basically an organic solvent but may also include oils, scents and coloring. Nail polish remover comes in a variety of different packages including individual felt pads soaked in remover, a bottle of liquid remover that can be used with a cotton ball and even containers filled with foam and remover that can be used by inserting a finger into the container and twisting until the polish comes off.

The base solvent in nail polish remover is usually acetone or ethyl acetate. Acetonitrile has also been used in the past, but is more toxic: two cases have been reported of accidental poisoning of young children by acetonitrile-based nail polish remover, one of which was fatal.[7][8] Acetonitrile has been banned in cosmetics (including nail polish removers) in the European Economic Area since 2000-03-17.[9]

Mascara
History

The first mascara product was invented by Eugene Rimmel in the 19th century. The word "rimmel" still means "mascara" in several languages, including Portuguese (rímel), Turkish (rimel), Romanian (rimel), Dutch (rimel), Persian (rimel) etc.

The word mascara derives from the Italian maschera, which means "mask"[1]from Middle Latin masca or Arabic Maskhara or from Old Occitan masco [2]. Modern mascara was created in 1913 by a chemist named T. L. Williams for his sister, Mabel. This early mascara was made from coal dust mixed with Vaseline petroleum jelly. The product was a success with Mabel, and Williams began to sell his new product through the mail. His company Maybelline, a combination of his sister's name and Vaseline, eventually became a leading cosmetics company.

Mascara is used to darken and thicken lashes, and was composed of colorants and carnauba wax. Users wet a brush and rubbed it over the cake, then applied it to the eyes. Mascara is used by women to enhance eyes as well as draw attention to them.

The modern tube and wand applicator was more appealing to the market than the old "cake" mascara. Max Factor was the first to create a mascara with a wand applicator in the product tube, which started the modern mascara products available today.

Composition

Modern mascaras can be divided in two groups: water resistant mascaras (often labeled waterproof) and non-water resistant mascaras.

Water resistant mascaras have a composition based on a volatile solvent (isododecane - an isomer of dodecane), animal-derived waxes (beeswax), vegetal based waxes (carnauba wax, rice bran wax, candelila wax), mineral origin wax (ozokerite, paraffin), pigments (iron oxide, ultramarine) and filmifying polymers. These mascaras do not contain water-sensitive moieties, offering an excellent resistance to tears, sweat or rain. As a result, these mascaras can only be removed with a specific make-up remover, able to dilute the dried mascara film.

Egg whites are often used in colored mascara.

Non water-resistant mascaras are based on water, soft surfactants (like triethanolamine stearate), animal-derived waxes (beeswax), vegetal based waxes (carnauba wax, rice bran wax, candelilla wax), mineral origin waxes (ozokerite, paraffin), pigments (iron oxide, ultramarine), thickening polymers (gum arabic, hydrophobically modified cellulose) and on preservatives. These mascaras can run under the effect of tears, but are easily removed with some soap and water.

Polymers in a water dispersed form (latexes) can bring some level of water resistance to the group of normally non-water resistant mascaras.

Waterproof mascaras are similar to oil-based or solvent-based paints. Non water-resistant mascaras behave like water based paints. For intermediate water sensitivity, mascaras and latex-based paints (acrylates) contain polymer dispersions.

Green mascara

Mascara may be used on all eyelashes, from inner to outer corners. The mascara wand is dipped into a clean tube of mascara, applied close to the base of the lashes and worked out to the tips. Mascara wands are made of plastic and should never be shared. Mascara can be applied to the top eyelashes for a 'heavy-lidded' look, or to the bottom lashes to widen the eyes. It is usually applied to curled lashes and may be preceded by a lash primer. The desired lengthening effect is achieved by reapplication of the mascara in 2-3 minutes. The moisture in some mascaras and primers can cause lashes to uncurl during application, which is easily solved by using a waterproof mascara with a drier formula. Waterproof mascara should be carefully removed in order to limit eyelash breakage.

Mascara that contains nylon fibers can give lashes a fuller and longer appearance because it clings to the lashes like mini extensions. Provitamin B5 in mascara acts as a conditioner for lashes, giving them a softer and more natural feel. For safety and health issues, mascaras should be discarded 3 months after opened.

Foundation
History

The use of cosmetics to enhance the complexion has been known since antiquity. From “face painting”, mentioned in the Old Testament (Ezekiel 23:40) to ceruse, a lethal mixture of mercury and lead popular in the 16th century [1], modern foundation can trace its roots to Carl Baudin of the Leipzeiger Stalt theatre in Germany. In desiring to conceal the joint between his wig and forehead, he developed a flesh-colored paste made of zinc, ochres and lard. This formulation was so popular with other actors Baudin began producing it commercially, and, as such, gave birth to the first theatrical makeup (“greasepaint”).[2]This would be the standard for theatrical makeup until 1914, when legendary makeup artist Max Factor created Flexible Greasepaint that was less reflective under the lighting on movie sets [3]. Although makeup would evolve dramatically from Baudin’s invention, theatrical makeup is, to this day, not too far removed from the original blend of fats and pigment.

Pan-Cake

The first commercially available foundation was Max Factor’s Pan-Cake. Originally developed for use in film, actresses were so taken with the results that Factor was overwhelmed with demand for the product for their personal use. The breakthrough in his formula was the first “foundation and powder in one”; traditionally, an actor was made up with an oil/emollient based makeup, which was then set with powder to reduce the reflection and ensure it would not fade or smudge. Pan-Cake used talc – rather than oil or wax – as the base, and, applied directly to the skin with a wet sponge, it offered enough coverage (it could be layered without caking on the skin) to eliminate the need for a foundation underneath. This was considered significantly more lightweight and natural-looking on the skin than the standard method, hence the keenness for women on wearing the item in public. Although foundation makeup was widely available and used within the film industry, the use of cosmetics in general was still somewhat disreputable, and no one had tried to market foundation (lipstick, blush and nail polish was popular for daily use) as an everyday item. Factor had the product patented in 1937, and, in spite of the economic turmoil of the era [1], Pan-Cake became one of the most successful cosmetic launches of all time. By 1940, it was estimated than 1 in 3 North American women owned and wore Pan-Cake [4] As of February 2009, Procter and Gamble, the brand’s current owner, confirmed the original formula Factor developed and used himself is still sold today.[5]

Modern Formulations

Colour

Colour may be identified by a name, number, letter or any combination of the three. However, unlike artist Pantone or the Munsell system used in the fashion industry, cosmetic colours have no standardization. Thus, when an artist requests Raw Umber or Burnt Sienna paint, he or she can expect that colour to be consistent, regardless of the brand of paint purchased. In contrast, if a makeup artist requests a Medium Beige foundation, the result can vary drastically from brand to brand, and, sometimes, within one brand across different formulas. Lastly, cosmetic companies can edit and/or adjust their formulations and shades at any time with no notice, so the Medium Beige foundation a consumer has been wearing for years can, without warning, be made darker, lighter, more or less yellow than it had been before.

Colour Classification

Many companies classify their shades as Warm, Neutral or Cool. Adding to the confusion is the different colour wheels used between the art and beauty industry. The traditional artists’ palette places the line dividing Cool and Warm across Primary Blue, whereas the cosmetic palette places the line across Primary Red. Thus, on the artists’ wheel, Yellow is always Cool, Red is always Warm, and Blue can be Neutral (Primary), Warm (Violet), or Cool (Green). In contrast, the cosmetic palette classifies Yellow as always Warm, Blue as always Cool, and Red as either Neutral (Primary), Warm (Orange) or Cool (Blue-Red). The cosmetic palette is never used outside of makeup, and is very common in the industry – though a handle of professional lines, such as Mehron, RCMA, William Tuttle and even Max Factor and M.A.C. – use the conventional artists palette. Thus, a “Warm Beige” foundation may either have a yellow tint or a pink tint, depending on the palette the companies’ creative director uses. Note that the artists’ palette is designed to be used on canvas - which is white – compared to the makeup palette – which is used on flesh – a beige to brown tone.

Selection

Although most artists squabble the significance of selecting an exact match to the wearers’ skin tone, intentionally using a mismatch can achieve a desired result. An excessively red complexion can be minimized by using a clear (meaning neither yellow nor pink) beige or yellow toned foundation; a sallow or dull complexion can be brightened with a rose to red tint; a mature skin that has lost its colour and appears pale and dull can be brightened with a tint of clear pink; and olive or ashy skin can be brightened with a shot of peach. A crucial point in selecting a foundation shade is to recognize that the appearance of the shade in the container may not accurately gauge the colour impact on the skin – a foundation that appears very yellow in the bottle may go on much less yellow, or not appear yellow at all.

Coverage

Coverage refers to the opacity of the makeup, or how much it will conceal on the skin.
          o Sheer is the most transparent and contains the least amount of pigment. It will not hide discolorations on the skin; however, it can minimize the contrast between the discoloration and the rest of the skin tone. Although pigment technology has evolved dramatically since 2004, the traditional protocol for sheer foundations called for pigment to compromise 8 - 13% of the finished formula [2]
          o Light can cover unevenness and slight blotchiness, but is not opaque enough to cover freckles. It contains 13 - 18% pigment
          o Medium coverage can, when set with a tinted (instead of translucent) powder, cover freckles, discolorations, blotchiness, and red marks left by pimples. It will contain 18 - 23% pigment.
          o Full coverage is very opaque, and used to cover birthmarks, scars, vitiligo, hyperpigmentation and scars. It is sometimes referred to as Corrective or Camouflage makeup. In general it will contain up to 35% pigment, though professional brands, designed for use on stage, can contain up to 50% pigment.

Formulation

The formula refers to the ingredients blended together, and how the makeup is formulated.
          o Oil and emollient based are the oldest type of makeup. An oil (usually mineral oil) or emollient (such as petrolatum, beeswax, or lanolin) is used as the main ingredient, with pigment added to it. The texture and application is extremely thick and dense, most closely resembling modern lip balms or lipsticks. The extremely emollient nature stays moist and will not cake, is moderately waterproof, and provides the most opaque coverage; but it can smudge, fade, and change colour (darkening or oxidizing) during wear. Since the 1970’s, synthetic wax has also been used, which is less greasy and more reliable than other emollients. Used professionally, it is sometimes referred to as Greasepaint. Examples: Pan-Stik (Max Factor’s follow-up to his Pan-Cake makeup), Elizabeth Arden Sponge-On Cream, Mehron, Dermablend.
          o Oil-based shakers are different from traditional oil-and-emollient based makeup in that they were liquid foundations developed before emulsifiers and binding agent were available, and thus separate in the bottle, like the alcohol-based formulas mentioned below. Once shaken, this is akin to applying coloured oil to the skin, with a smooth texture than can provide medium coverage with a moist finish. It was a marked improvement in application, stability and finish over the tradition oil bases, but improvements since then have rendered these nearly extinct. Examples: Alexandra de Markoff Countess Isserlyn, Frances Denney Incandescent.
          o Alcohol based uses a blend of water and denatured alcohol as the base, with pigment added to it. Developed by Erno Laszlo for problematic skin, it eliminated emollient and binding agent that could clog pores, and needs to be shaken before use. Alcohol-based foundations have the most lightweight, “nothing on my face” feel, and nearly impossible to clog pores, but provide only the sheerest coverage and can be tricky to apply and blend. They work better with cotton balls or pads, instead of latex or sea sponges. Examples: Erno Lazslo Normalizer Shake-It, Clinique Pore Minimizer.
          o Powder based began with Max Factors’ Pan Cake, using powder – usually talc – as the main ingredient. Pigment is added, along emollients, skin adhesion agents and binding agents to the formula before it is pressed into pans. The difference between this type of foundation and pressed powder is that this provides more coverage (due to more pigment), and contains more skin adhesion agents (to help it stick to the skin – because pressed powder is lighter weight, it requires less). Some formulas – such as Pan Cake – also contain wax, and can only be applied with a wet sponge; others, such as M.A.C. StudioFix contain no emollient, and can only be used dry; the last group, such as Lancome Dual Finish, contain a smaller amount of oil and can be used either way. This provide a “finished” look and can blend from sheer to nearly full coverage, but can look too floury and dry, especially around the eyes, or on drier/mature skin. They can also flake and trickle down as they are applied and blended.
                + Mineral makeup most commonly refers to a foundation in loose powder format. The most common minerals used as the base are bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. However, talc is also a mineral[3], so a talc-based powder could be considered a "mineral makeup" - although most mineral makeup sold makes a point of being talc-free. Although the market has recently been flooded with this type of foundation, it is important for the consumer to be aware that there are no standards or guidelines for labeling this product. A "mineral makeup" may be all mineral, part mineral - or contain less than 1% mineral as part of the finished formula. Using this logic, practically all makeup could be considered mineral. Additionally, mineral makeup may or may not be USDA organic; the label must specifically mention this, as it is possible to make a mineral product that does not meet USDA guidelines.
          o Water Based makeup premiered after the end of World War 2, with emulsifiers that could successfully keep a water-and-oil blended emulsion stable being the key to their development. This creamy liquid provided medium coverage with a far more natural feel and appearance than oil, powder or emollient bases of the time, and became popular with women since then. Examples include: Cover Girl Clean Makeup, Estee Lauder Country Mist. Since then, variations on the formula have expanded the category significantly:
                + Water-based cream makeup has a rich, creamy texture that can be sheer to full coverage with a moist, satiny finish. It usually comes in a jar or tube, and is much more comfortable and realistic looking on the skin than the oil or emollient-based predecessors. Examples: Elizabeth Arden Hydro-Light, Guerlain Issima.
                + Water-based Oil-Free eliminates oil altogether, but substitutes an emollient ester or fatty alcohol in the base, and adds a mattifying agent – usually clay – to dry to a flat, non-reflective (“matte”) finish. Oil-Free liquids are quite thick and heavy, and the earliest versions took time to pour out of the bottle. They provide solid medium coverage but dry quickly, and can thus set before blended is complete. The result is streaking, which is then difficult to smooth out without starting over from scratch. The usual recommendation is to divide the face into quarter sections, and to apply and blend the makeup over one section (rather than the entire face) at a time. Blending over moisturized skin with a wet sponge can also help compensate for the lack of slip. However, they will last a long time and resist smudging, even on very oily skin. Examples: Clinique Stay-True Oil-Free.
                + Water-based Transfer-Resistant follows the same formulation as Oil-Free, but uses a film-former or polymer instead of (or in addition to) the clay to achieve a matte finish that resists being rubbed off. Transfer-resistant makeup was launched in 1993 by Revlon-owned Ultima II with Lipsexxxy, [4] the first lipcolour that included film-former to prevent rubbing off. By 1996, WonderWear foundation and Revlon Colorstay had been launched, using the same technology as the lipsticks. Transfer-resistant (sometimes called transfer-proof) makeup will last on very oily skin, skin that perspires heavily, or in humid climates longer than any other type of foundation, though it is even more difficult to apply than oil-free makeup. The thick texture dries almost instantly, and requires a fair amount of experimentation to master. The most modern versions (such as Revlon Colorstay SoftFlex) have made marked improvements [5]over predecessors in that regard.
          o Silicone based makeup uses a silicone – or a blend of water and silicone - as the main ingredient. The most typical silicones used are dimethicone, polysiloxane and volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone and phenyl trimethicone. The silicone provides lubrication and viscosity (what some artists refer to as “slip”) at a level equal to, or often, even better than oil allowing a product to apply and blend over the skin smoothly and evenly. Silicones have a lighter weight and are thus more comfortable on the skin, as well as resisting filling in lines or large pores on the face. Conventional silicones stay supple and smooth, even in dry climates, whereas volatile silicones last long enough to blend over the face, then evaporate (like alcohol), leaving little to no feel behind. Because silicones lack a carbon molecule (like oil), they are less likely to oxidize or change colour during wear.One of the biggest challenges facing silicone bases is the tendency for the product to break and/or ball up on the skin, something unique to silicones and out of control of the user. Ionizing the silicones (magnetically charging the silicone positive) helps it adhere to (negatively charged) skin[6], though this technology is in its infancy and thus rather expensive. Examples: Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse.

Makeup Types

      
          *  Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner and lip boosters.[1]
          * Foundation, used to color the face and conceal flaws to produce an impression of health and youth. Usually a liquid, cream, powder or mousse.[1]
          * Powder, used to set the foundation, giving a matte finish, and also to conceal not-so-noticeable flaws.
          * Rouge, blush or blusher, cheek stain used to color the cheeks and emphasize the cheekbones. This comes in powder, cream and gel forms.[1]
          * Bronzer, used to create a more tan look to the skin.[1]
          * Mascara and lash extender, lash conditioner used to enhance the eyelashes. Can be of different colors and even waterproof. [1]
          * Eye liner, eye shadow, eye putty, eye shimmer, and glitter eye pencils as well as different color pencils used to color and emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes are a sign of youth).[1]
          * Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and powders are used to fill in and define the brows.[1]
          * Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and toenails.[1]
          * Concealer, Makeup used to cover any imperfections of the skin.

      Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body, sunscreens to protect the skin from damaging UV radiation, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.). Cosmetics can also be described by the form of the product, as well as the area for application. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions; powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or sticks.

 

Copyright © 2009 --- Network World Austria - All Rights Reserved.
Network World Alliance - Partnerschaft mit vielen Vorteilen

Webdesign aus Tirol designed by PC-DIDI.